There's something magical yet haunted about Budapest. The Danube flows through the city, neatly dividing Buda and Pest like wide blue ribbon. One cannot help but hum Strauss's waltz. But visit the Terror House museum and a chilling history unfolds, where many Hungarian Jews were rounded up, imprisoned, tortured, and murdered, their bodies thrown into the icy river.
Despite this terrible past, or perhaps because of it, Budapest was still able to cast its spell on me, with its grand cafes, its turn-of-the-last, last century Belle Epoque baths, and innumerable beautiful bridges that cross the blue Danube...